How to Install Your Iron Fence


International building codes require the limiting of a minimum fence barrier of 200 lb, applied tangentially to the top rail. This means that a person or a few people who rely on a train can eventually apply a tangential force of 200 lb and the fence should be able to hold back. There are several factors involved in this. However, the only factor that almost makes no sense is the type of fence, because, for the most part the fence is built on a common practice, and usually just okay. The main factor for code compliance is the quality of installation. If someone does not install the fence properly, even if the fence harga mdf is made of thick solid steel, it will not pass the 200 pound test. It does not make sense to build an iron fence that might need a power equal to 1000 lb just to slightly bend it and then let it lose against the wall! But this is what happens most cases when a fence fails.


There are several types of “walls” where fences usually stick. WALL Wall EXTERIOR Usually this type of wall has a regular wooden frame, and the bricks just stick. If you want to be too careful, you can drill bricks with a few stones, until you reach the wood in the back, and then ware the wood to swing the long 3/8 inch lag bolts long into it. However with experience it is possible to use an expansion bolt, 3/8 by 1 7/8 and install it into the brick and still have a pretty strong grip. If the brick is lost or cracked, you may have a problem. Also if you open too many holes, the expansion may lose or loosen the time. Another possibility is to use concrete press concrete, which is a very strong blue screw. I prefer an expansion arm anchor over the counter press. However, installed correctly, just press the counter on the bricks. Be careful not to overload while driving on press press, quite easily. If the bricks are not solid enough, hit counter may not work. So make sure you have a healthy solid brick to use. Otherwise, you will be ready to go back to plan A. Do not use any kind of anchor that needs impact, because it can damage the bricks, causing bigger problems.


The wooden frame outside always has a 1/2 inch plywood OSB behind the board. But you do not want to attach your fence to the plywood, but also the original timber framed. You might be able to take the rails out to plywood, but for sure, if the fence is heavy, they will fail. If the building inspector catches it, you will fail the examination. But not every time, sometimes you can go, in good clarity, rail with weak joints (not lost) above, if there is a pole near the wall and anchor four floors are well attached. Actually a good post attachment will free up the needs of the top anchor, your fence can be left free standing, and still pass the load test. As an installer you have the right to request that proper wood support be installed on the wall. Inside the frame, on the other hand, covered with drywall. The anchor drywall will not take the load, even less than the OSB. So, do not plug your fence in drywall. But there are two exceptions to this rule: the first is what we have mentioned, and the second is that if the fence is just a wall fence, and let’s say you have 4 brackets, and one on the dry wall, it will happen. To be probably OK if the bracket is not at one end.